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Though the recent proliferation of celebrity-led brands makes this seem like it’s a new phenomenon, it’s really not. Coco Chanel, an orphan who successively transformed herself from a cabaret singer to a courtesan to a milliner to a designer, once described Cristóbal Balenciaga as being the sole couturier among her colleagues. “He is the only one, who can design, cut, put together, and sew a suit or a gown entirely alone,” she once commented. If needle skills are optional, a strong point of view and a true understanding of women’s needs are essential: Totême, the label founded by Swedes Elin Kling and Karl Lindman, has both. This golden couple, now married and parents to Liv, have extensive, if nontraditional, fashion backgrounds. Lindman modeled before becoming an art director. In 2007 a friend encouraged Kling to start a blog; within 48 hours of launching, Kling has said, she was the most-followed account in the country. Many opportunities in media, modeling, and design followed. Four years later, Kling debuted her own magazine, Styleby, with publisher Bonniers and launched the first collection H&M ever created with a blogger. She was briefly involved with a made-from-scratch label called Nowhere, and returned to collaborating the next year with a capsule collection for Marciano. The logical next step for Kling was a line of her own.
For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit http://www.vogue.com/article/toteme-swedish-fashion-week-spring-2018-elin-kling-karl-lindman
(Jon Santa Cruz / REX / Shutterstock / WWD) Levi Strauss & Co. has snapped up a piece of feminist history, as well as its own, by acquiring what are likely the oldest pair of women’s jeans in existence. Bought and worn in the early Thirties by Viola Longacre, who was then studying to be a teacher at a Fresno, Calif. college and passed away in 2014 aged 100, the jeans are among Levi’s first denim offerings for women in an era when a woman in pants of any kind was atypical. “Pants for women in the Thirties were uncommon,” Tracey Panek, Levi’s resident historian, said. “Women entering the workforce who needed sturdy workwear during World War II helped change the perceptions about wearing pants. But even with women heading in droves to take up often heavy-duty manufacturing work, pants for women were generally trousers, “no denim ,” Panek said. The culture of Fresno, part of a county still dominated by agriculture, made it a good market for women’s jeans, which would have appealed to women looking for “practicality” when much of life involved being outdoors, Panek said. The jeans were found in a 2015 estate sale and the buyer initially contacted Levi’s for an appraisal, before the denim company acquired them for an undisclosed sum. They are now known as “Viola” and are the oldest women’s jeans in Levi’s archives. The previous holder of that title is a pair known as “Harriet” after their former owner Harriet Atwood and date to 1938.
For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit http://www.latimes.com/fashion/la-ig-wwd-levisold-womens-denim-20170829-story.html
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